Sunday, April 16, 2017

Shalimar by Guerlain c1925

Shalimar perfume was originally created in 1921 by Guerlain. It was re-released during the Art Deco Exhibition in Paris in 1925. I have separate blog posts on Shalimar bottles and its flanker scents on my Guerlain blog site.



History of Shalimar Perfume


Shalimar was named after the garden in Srinagar, built for Mumtaz Mahal, wife of Shah Jahan in honor of his wife. Before he became emperor his name was Prince Khurram. According to the legend, twenty- year-old Prince Khurram met a young girl, named Arjumand Banu at the bazaar where her family worked.

Mesmerized by her beauty, after becoming emperor, he made her his wife as Mumtaz Mahal, meaning the "Jewel of the Palace". After the wedding ,the prince and Mumtaz were inseparable, in war and in peace. She had given 13 children to Shahjahan and died during the birth of their 14th child at the age of 39. Her death devastated Shah Jahan and had built Taj Mahal in memory of his wife and their undying love. Shalimar is named after ‘The Gardens of Shalimar’.It was Mumtaz’s favorite garden.



Guerlain filed a trademark for the name Shalimar on 8/24/1926, and noted that its first recorded use in commerce was 4/3/1926. The trademark was renewed in 1966 to include these Shalimar named products: perfume, cologne, toilet water, dusting powder, talcum powder, skin lotion, hair spray and bath oil.  The name was again renewed in 2006 and 2009.



Michael Edwards' book Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances notes that at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925, Guerlain received an award, but it didn't attract much attention. It wasn't until later when traveling to the United States, Madame Guerlain and her husband  learned that Shalimar had already been desired by the American public before they stepped off the ship into New York.

A 1931 ad reads: "And if she seeks perfume, then will she find in the enchanting, the miraculous creations of Guerlain the end of her quest. Who can forget ever the emotion of gorgeous Shalimar . . . the muted voice of velvet Shalimar!' Its fame has gone round the world.."

A 1932 ad reads: " A perfume by Guerlain is the epitome of elegance, the consummate gift among luxuries. For it is a gift which enhances the elegance of women. Shalimar is the reigning perfume of the world. Women of elegance in all the great capitals bow to its power and beauty."

Controversy


Shalimar proved to be so successful that in 1927 a rival perfume company, DuBarry Perfumery Co. of England who was already using the name for a line of toiletry products in the United Kingdom as filed for opposition against Guerlain's trademark and subsequently a legal battle issued. Throughout the 1920s and into early part of the 1930s, Shalimar's name was replaced by "No. 90", "No. 91", and "No. 92", Guerlain's stock catalog numbers for the perfume, on bottles for export to the United Kingdom.


DuBarry Perfumery Co. (Goldstone Laboratories, Hove), was selling line of toiletry products named Shalimar, by 1930, the line was extended to include even more products than before. I saw ads for DuBarry's Shalimar manicure products and other toiletries in 1916, before Guerlain "officially" launched Shalimar perfume and I still saw ads for Creme Shalimar  by DuBarry being sold in 1972.

Villon Perfumer, also decided to cash in on the popularity and launched a cheaper perfume. Samuel A. Klein doing business as Villon Perfumer was blending small amounts of Guerlain's Shalimar with his own cheap perfume blend and rebottling them into smaller bottles. He was advertising these bottles as "Guerlain's Shalimar et Villon Blend, Rebottled by Villon, NYC, Wholly Independent of Guerlain"  and "Genuine Extracts of Shalimar with Villon Blender". A legal battle ensued in 1931, suing Villon for using the trade names of Mitsouko and Shalimar. There was also uncontradicted testimony that scientific and practical tests reveals that there was a marked difference between Guerlain's Shalimar perfume and the contents of the small vials sold by Villon.

Original Fragrance Composition


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: vanilla, leather, bergamot, lemon
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, vanilla, orris, patchouli, vetiver, incense, civet
  • Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean and musk

Shalimar made use of the ambreine accord, which is formed between bergamot, vanillin (or ethyl vanillin), coumarin and civet, with woody (vetiver, patchouli 4% and sandalwood) and rose notes (Calkin and Jellinek 1994). This was also used in the following oriental ambery fragrances: L'Origan by Coty, Must de Cartier and Obsession by Calvin Klein.

Reformulated Fragrance Composition


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. In 2001, it was slightly tweaked to appeal to a wider audience.
  • Top notes:  lemon, bergamot, mandarin
  • Middle notes: jasmine, may rose, heliotrope, opoponax, patchouli, iris
  • Base notes: orris, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, incense, tonka bean, vanilla, civet, balsam of Peru, benzoin, leather, ambergris

Shalimar was one of the first scents to incorporate the synthetic vanilla compound, vanillin (Methoxy-3-Hydroxybenzaldehyde). Jacques Guerlain believed that the scent of vanilla was an aphrodisiac, so while examining a sample of vanillin, suddenly poured the entire contents into a nearby bottle of Jicky,," just to see what would happen." The resulting concoction was to be named Shalimar.

Perfume Shrine has noted that "Vanillin was first isolated as a relatively pure substance in 1858 by Nicolas-Theodore Gobley, by evaporating a vanilla extract to dryness and recrystallizing the resulting solids. In 1874, German scientists Ferdinand Tiemann and Wilhelm Haarmann found a way to synthesize vanillin from coniferin, a glycoside of isoeugenol found in pine bark (they went on to found a company which now belongs to Symrise and produce it industrially). In 1876, Karl Reimer synthesized vanillin from another source: guaiacol. The laboratories De Laire bought the patent for vanillin and sold the product to Guerlain for their perfumery, first used in Jicky. But, Jicky already contained vanillin along with natural vanilla extract, as well as coumarin and linalool. The secret to the medicinal, smoky yellow vanillin of Jicky, reprised in Shalimar, was the remnants of guaiacol and phenols, lending an autumnal darkness to what would otherwise be a confectionary sweet cream. This is the reason that Guerlain insisted on ordering the impure grade of vanillin even when the chemical process was improved."

Famous perfumer Ernest Beaux, realized that Shalimar was a great perfume and thus complained: "When I do vanilla I get crème anglaise, when Guerlain does it he gets Shalimar!"

Jean-Paul Guerlain has said, “Vanilla is famous as an aphrodisiac and I think that this is true. My grand-father, Jacques Guerlain, taught me how to love vanilla as it adds something wonderfully erotic to a perfume. It turned Shalimar into an evening gown with an outrageously plunging neckline.”

To me, the scent of Shalimar is deep and velvety black with the scent of lemons hinted with medicinal vanilla. Night-blooming flowers, vanilla and musks blend exquisitely in this heady, romantic and sensual scent to create instant and lasting intrigue. Shalimar is one of the best selling perfumes ever and it's magic is undeniable.

Personally I find that vintage Shalimar perfumes smell the best, as their perfume oils were more concentrated and natural and didnt have the synthetic chemical smell that today's reformulated versions have. The vintage perfumes have a delightful musky, smoky, velvety and well rounded accord that are not comparable in the Shalimar of today due to IFRA restrictions and the fact that the perfumers at Guerlain may not have access to exclusive perfume bases once used in the composition.

If you wish to obtain the earlier versions, I suggest the Shalimar of the 1920s up until the 1990s. They have aged beautifully, like a fine wine. Ebay always has some really good examples, and they are usually at bargain prices.

I suggest getting the perfumes that look dark, syrupy and thick. I find that these last a very long time when applied to the skin and the vanilla warms up nicely. Please remember that the older Shalimar is, the darker it will be in the bottle. If it is light colored, it is newer.

If you can find it, a vintage bottle of Scherk's Intermezzo perfume smells similar to Shalimar, but it is a tad weaker and lighter in character, a good substitute if you find Shalimar a little too strong.

Current Bottles & Products:









Ancillary Products


Shalimar was so popular that Guerlain came out with ancillary products that showcased its unique scent. The first of these was the Shalimar Face Powder, La Poudre C'Est Moi.



A 1931 ad reads: " So why do you not hasten to try Guerlain's new achievement, Shalimar Powder? It is scented with the famous Shalimar. ... Guerlain meant this Shalimar Powder to give the skin an effect of surreal loveliness. And his patrons say that it does."  In 1930, Shalimar face powder was then packed in a sealed container which had a “window” of transparent tissue, so that the purchaser could see the actual color.

Then came the Shalimar scented Lotion Vegetale, meant to perfume the hair before or after shampooing, combed through the hair to make it soft and smooth, although men also used it as an aftershave lotion too. The 8 oz capsule bottles were sold from 1953 til 1971, earlier bottles were tall and rectangular with a glass ball stopper.









Shalimar Talcum powder in the frosted bottle  "Flacon Poudreur" was introduced in 1950, it was being put up in a white plastic canister in the late 1960s, then it was sold in a turquoise canister in the 1980s.

Shalimar Dusting Powder was introduced around 1955 housed in a faux tortoiseshell plastic powder box, then inside of a white plastic powder box in the 1960s and 1970s, then in a turquoise plastic powder box in the 1983, then a navy blue and white plastic powder box starting in the late 1990s, and is still being sold today.

Guerlain's Creme Hydratante introduced in 1959, a lanolin based moisturizer, lightly scented and meant to be lavished all over the body, particularly on arms and legs. Still sold around 1967.

Shalimar Film Spray Body Lotion was a scented, pink, light moisturizing body lotion in spray form created in 1966 and sold until 1975.

Shalimar Capillaque hair spray,  Capillaque was the name of scented hair sprays/brilliantine sprays . A trademark was filed in 1961 for the hair spray and the trademark expired in 1988, but I am pretty sure this was discontinued by around 1971.

Shalimar Body Shampoo was released in 1976.

Bath oils were introduced in 1952. These lyre shaped glass flacons held six scents: Shalimar, Mitsouko, Liu, Fleur de Feu, L'Heure Bleue and Vol de Nuit.

Guerlain released Shalimar's ancillary products in this turquoise packaging starting in 1983, this line was known as Les Voluptes du Bain de Guerlain and sold til 1999, when the products were given a makeover with a shape hearkening back to the original Shalimar flacon. Three new products were offered, Perfumed Bath Salts, Sensual Milky Veil.




The following Shalimar products can be found in the online or at fine department stores or on ebay/etsy:
  • Eau de Cologne 2.5fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Spray 2.5 fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Spray 1.7fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Gold Bee Bottle 16.9fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Gold Bee Bottle 33.8fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette White Bee Bottle 16.9fl oz
  • Habit De Fete Eau de Parfum Spray Refill 1.69fl oz
  • Habit De Fete Eau de Toilette Spray Refill 3.1fl oz
  • Habit De Fete Perfume Spray Refill 0.27fl oz
  • Eau de Parfum Spray 2.5fl oz Eau de Parfum Spray 1.7fl oz
  • Eau de Parfum Spray 1fl oz
  • Eau de Parfum mini Parfum/Extrait 0.25fl oz
  • Parfum/Extrait 0.50fl oz
  • Parfum/Extrait 1 fl oz
  • Sensual Milky Veil (Body Lotion) 6.8fl oz
  • Moisturising Body Lotion Bottle 6.8fl oz
  • Silky Moisturising Body Mist Spray 3.4fl oz
  • Body Cream 7fl oz
  • Sensual Body Oil 3.3fl oz
  • Perfumed Dusting Powder 4.4oz
  • Bath Salts 17.6oz
  • Ritual Bath Gel 6.8fl oz
  • Shower Gel Bottle 6.8fl oz
  • Voluptuous Foaming Bath Bottle 6.8fl oz
  • Deodorant Spray 3.4fl oz
  • Hair Gel 0.25fl oz
  • Shalimar Light Eau de Toilette Spray 2.5fl oz
  • Shalimar Beautifying Hair Gel
  • Soothing Bath Oil Beads
  • Bath Essence
  • Body Shampoo
The line consisted of the following products in the late 1960s-1970s:
  • Parfum
  • Parfum Spray
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Eau de Cologne
  • Spray Cologne
  • Film Spray Parfumé
  • Capillaque
  • Bath Oil
  • Déodorant
  • Talc 
  • Crème Hydratante
  • Flanelle pour le linge


Shalimar Bottle Guides:


EXTRAIT (PARFUM) BOTTLES:

Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) c1924- present
Shalimar extrait de parfum was presented in several different flacons over the years, all bottles will have a gilded label. The oldest design is its original one from 1925, the urn shaped flacon, called the "Chauve Souris" by Baccarat (#597). The design of the bottle was designed by Raymond Guerlain and Baccarat in 1924. Guerlain filed a patent or trademark for the bottle's shape in 1954, and noted its first use in commerce was 1/1/1926. On March 24, 1954, a U.S. federal trademark registration was filed for the bottle's logo by Guerlain, Inc., New York. The USPTO has given the trademark serial number of 71663184.



The bottle is made up of clear crystal with a fluted base, and a blue glass or blue flashed stopper with Guerlain Paris in gold lettering. A very rare example will have the stopper in just plain clear crystal and gold lettering. Roja Dove noted that the early stoppers were also fired using mercury which gave a wonderful violet iridescence to the crystal, but had to be discontinued because of the toxicity of working with mercury as it posed a poisoning threat to the factory workers. Baccarat found a new way to color the stoppers and the mercury paint was discontinued. However, when I contacted Guerlain a few months ago and they stated that mercury was never used in the manufacture of their stoppers.

The earliest Shalimar extrait bottles have small holes drilled into the base of the stopper, which allowed the cording used during the finishing process (baudruchage) to be threaded through and then wrapped around the neck, thus sealing the bottle. Both Baccarat and Cristal Nancy's bottles displayed the holed stoppers. These early stoppers had a hole in the base which the sealing cord was threaded through,  this was used to seal the bottles from 1925-1936.





The bottle design was also copied and used for Shalimar by the glass houses of Cristal Romesnil, Saint Gobain des Jonqueres, Pochet et du Courval, and Cristal Nancy. Cristal Nancy closed its doors in 1931 and was acquired by Baccarat so if your bottle is marked with the Cristal Nancy logo, your bottle was made between 1925 and 1931.

Look on the base of your bottle for acid stamps for Baccarat, Cristal Nancy or Cristal Romesnil, these markings add value to your bottle. The mark for Pochet et du Courval is an entwined HP molded into the base of the bottle.

The Chauve Souris bottle came housed in a lilac flocked hinged box, simulating velvet. The bottle will lay down perfectly in a specifically cut out portion of the box.


Manufacturers:

Baccarat:
  • 20ml/0.676 oz - 10.5cm/4.13"
  • 30ml/1 oz - 14.3cm/5.63"
  • 60ml/2 oz - 15.5/6.1"
  • 80ml/2.7 oz - 16cm/6.3"
  • 125ml/4.2oz - 20cm/7.87"
  • 250ml/8.4 oz -22.5cm/8.86"

Other manufacturers:
  • 7.5ml/1.25 oz - 7.4cm/2.91" (1991)
  • 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1954)
  • 10ml/0.388 oz - 8.2cm/3.23" wide feet (Saint Gobain from 1981-1984)
  • 15ml/0.5 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" wide feet (Saint Gobain from 1981-1986)
  • 16.5cc/0.558 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" (1964, changed in 1978 to 15ml)
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 9.6cm/3.78" (1948 )
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 10cm/3.94" (1948, changed in 1979 to 30ml)
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 11.4cm/4.49"
  • 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 15cm/5.91" (1962, changed in 1978 to 60ml)
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18cm/7.09"
  • 120ml/120cc/4.06 oz - 16.5cm/6.5" (Cristal Nancy from 1925-1931)
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 20.8cm/8.19"


Factice Bottles:

Large Factice (Display bottle, holds colored water, not perfume) stands 15.5" tall X 11" wide with foot measurements of 7" wide. Made by Pochet et du Courval.

Giant Factice (Display bottle, interior is amber colored to look like perfume, but the bottle holds no liquid), stands 17.5" tall x 12.5" wide x 5.25" deep.








Photo comparisons:


Two Shalimar bottles, both 15ml extrait, different designs,slightly different heights, made by two different makers. 



One on the left was made by Saint Gobain des Jonqueres and dates from 1981-1986. See how the foot is much wider and thicker than the other bottle, also note that the label is also slightly different in shape. This bottle is embossed with "SGD Guerlain Paris Bottle Made in France" and has a clear plastic label on the base that reads "Parfum GUERLAIN Paris 15ml 68% vol." and the date code "WX 4PC1".Photo from basenotes member ayelfior.

The bottle on the right is by Pochet et du Courval and dates to after 1978, the base is acid etched with "Bottle Made in France Net Cont 1/2 fl oz"..(Picture below) Photo from basenotes member ayelfior.


Difference in the two boxes. The SDG box on the left is only marked Guerlain inside and is a lighter lavender color, the Pochet et du Courval box on the right has the Marly Horse logo and the box is a darker purple.


Note the label on font reads "Parfum SHALIMAR guerlain 15ml 68% vol". 








A very rare presentation, called the Presentation Avion (airplane transportation presentation), used this style of box and was offered on the Air France Paris-New York flights, starting in 1960. The box was slightly different in the fact that instead of laying down inside the box, the bottle would stand up snugly inside a small plinth, in which the box lid would slip over making a cover. The stopper was not inside the bottle itself but was inside a tiny cardboard box which was included in the presentation box. The perfume was sealed with a cork covered in a thin plastic seal. Later, the bottle would sit inside the cut out seen in usual boxes of this type, instead of the plinth. These bottles were made by both Baccarat & Pochet et du Courval, look for their logos on the base, an entwined HP or the Baccarat symbol.



During 1940-1945, because of wartime restrictions, Shalimar was presented in its usual urn shaped bottle packaged in a simple blue and white boxes called presentations de guerre, marked "Conditionnement provisoire du manque d'écrin-la qualité et la quantité du parfum sont rigoureusement identiques a celles de notre présentation normale."





In 2010, designer Jade Jagger redesigned the eau de parfum flacon for Shalimar. With a clean, modern simplicity that replaces the familiar bat wing bottle.Please note that this is a spray bottle, Guerlain photoshopped the photo to hide the atomizer hardware and siphon tube. The bottle itself is glass, but the blue grey cap is plastic, a black leather ribbon encircles the neck of the bottle. The bottle comes in three sizes.

Other Extrait (Parfum) Bottles:


Flacon Amphore (Amphora) c1955-1982
Used for extraits from 1955 til 1982. Also known as Flacon Ode as it was first used for the perfume Ode. The frosted and clear glass bottle is in the shape of an amphora with draped motifs and topped with a stopper molded in the shape of a rosebud. Some early bottles (1955) will have a gilded plastic rosebud screwtop. Bottle made by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval.

Baccarat Flacons:
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 14,5cm/5.71" (1955) 
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18,3cm/7.2" (1955) 
Pochet et du Courval:
  • 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1959) ground glass rosebud shaped stopper, changed to plastic rosebud screwcap in 1978. 
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1955): gilt ground glass rosebud stopper




Flacon Borne (Boundary Stone) c1931- 1960s
Made by Pochet et du Courval to house extraits of Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Sillage and others.
  • 82cc/82ml/2.7 oz - 10,5cm/4.13" (1931), ground blue glass truncated stopper in the shape of a French policeman's cap 
  • World War II Version, all clear glass, without cobalt blue band.





Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-Present
Flacon quadrilobe was made by various manufacturers such as Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval and Cristalleries de Nancy to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders, except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk, Liu and Fleur de Feu which show a more 'modernist' design. But when used for Shalimar, the bottle will display the usual gilded Shalimar label.

  • 7,5ml/1.25 oz - 5cm/1.97" (1980) : plastic stopper 
  • 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5,6cm/2.2" (1954) : ground glass stopper 
  • 15ml/0.5 oz - 6,3cm/2.48" (1979) : plastic stopper 
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1951) : ground glass stopper 
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1924) : ground glass stopper changed to updated edition plus plastic stopper in 1962 
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 8,5cm/3.35" (1949) : ground glass stopper 
  • 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 9,5cm/3.74" (1962) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic stopper 
  • 80ml/2.7 oz - 9,7cm/3.82" 
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - 11,5cm/4.53" (1978) : plastic stopper 
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - 13,8cm/5.43" (1979) : plastic stopper 
  • 500ml/16.9 oz - 17cm/6.69" (1979) : plastic stopper 
  • 1 liter/1000ml - 22,5cm/8.86" (1979) : plastic stopper






Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar, Jicky, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue. Tsao-Ko, Coque D'Or, Gavotte, Lilas, Liu, Verveine and others.
  • 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz (1939-1945) 
  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945) 
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1938-1945) 
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945) 
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)

Flacon Opaline c1951 - 1956
Created by the Cristal et Bronze company and designed by R. Noirot, this flacon is decorated with enameled butterflies, it is meant to resemble the mid 19th century French opaline cologne bottles so popular in the Victorian era. The bottle held various standard Guerlain perfumes such as L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jicky, Shalimar and it was also seen without any specific perfume name in the cartouche on the front of the bottle.
  • 11.5cm/4.53" 
  • 15.5cm/6.1" 
  • 18.5cm/7.28"




Flacon de Sac (Purse Bottle) /Parapluie Flacon (Umbrella Bottle) c1952-1978
A purse vial made by various glass manufacturers: Pochet et du Courval, Brosse and Saint Gobains Desjonqueres, (1952-1978). The first presentations were encased in boxes which coordinated with the perfume's name and style. Later presentations omit the box and the flacon is housed inside of a leather case.

Bottle held extraits of Shalimar, Ode, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jasmin, Vega, Jicky, Sous le Vent, Chant D'Aromes, Chamade, Vol de Nuit, Liu and possibly more:
  • 7cc/7ml/0.237 oz - 7.8cm/3.07"


Flacon Petit Beurre (Little Butter Pat) c1916 - ?Limited edition flacon created by Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Rue de la Paix, Candide Effluve, A Travers Champs, Fol Arome, Quand Vient L'Été , Kadine, Guerlinade, Une Rose, Pour Troubler, Vague Souvenir and Champs Elysees.

Baccarat:
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 7.7cm/3.03" (limited edition of only 500 in 1916)
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 500 in 1916)

Pochet et du Courval:

  • 20ml/0.676 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" (1929)


CLICK HERE TO FIND SHALIMAR EXTRAIT (PARFUM)


Eau de Colognes

Shalimar Eau de Cologne, released in 1936, in USA in 1937, it came in four sizes initially. “Toilet water in an oval bottle with atomizer top is new, $5.” ( 1939) “Guerlain now has a $5 size of toilet water in all the popular fragrances such as Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Coque D’Or, Liu, Mitsouko, Sous Le Vent and Jicky.” (1940, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 46) Later the Cologne Spray was launched. A 1950 article reads "Guerlain recommends spraying a room with their famous Shalimar eau de cologne. This is a lighter form of their famous Shalimar. Because it is lighter, it is less expensive and can be used more lavishly."

Flacon Montre (Watch Bottle) c1936-1999
Starting in 1936, Shalimar came in a round, disk shaped eau de cologne bottle with a cone shaped stopper. This is called the Montre, or watch bottle. Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette, first used with Cachet Jaune in 1936, also held various other scents such as Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, Fol Arome, Chamade, Chant D'Aromes, Liu, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Sous Le Vent, Chypre 53, Parure and more.


A rare 1950 Christmas holiday presentation for Shalimar consists of the disk shaped bottle and a small, square red cotton ladies scarf printed with an image of this Shalimar flacon.They were housed in a rectangular, white cardboard case, with white satin interior.

  • 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1936-1950)
  • 64cc/64ml/2.16 oz - 12.5cm/4.92" (1972-1979) changed 60ml
  • 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 14.6cm/5.75" (1936-1999)
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1960-1972)
  • 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 18.5cm/7.28" (1936-1999)
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 24.3cm/9.57" (1936)
  • 1 liter/1000ml - 30cm/11.81" (1936)
  • 2 liter/2000ml - 37.5cm/14.75" (1970)
  • 3 liter/3000ml - 42cm/16.54" (1979)


Stoppers:

  • 1936-1972: ground glass stopper
  • 1972-1979: gold screw-cap stopper
  • 1979-1999: plastic stopper


Since it was used for all of Guerlain's standard colognes, only the central disk of color varied with the names of perfume. Shalimar bottles had a red label, from 1972-1979 Shalimar, when in a Montre with a gold cap, the bottle sometimes had a Navy Blue center.

Harper's Bazaar, 1950:
"Magnum of Guerlain's Shalimar Eau de Cologne, 32 ounces, $30."

Travel Flacon c1955-1981:

A simple splash bottle made in 1955 for Ode Eau de Cologne, subsequently containing all Eau de Colognes. The bottle was made to fit into a train case, hence its name. It was used for Vetiver in 1959 (at that time, the Vetiver label was red), and later for Habit Rouge and Mouchoir de Monsieur as well, with a black rim around the lid instead of the original feminine white one. 

Made by Pochet et du Courval:

  • 1 litre (October 1955)
  • 500cc  (July 1955)
  • 200cc  (July 1955)
  • 100cc (July 1955)
  • 50cc (January 1955)
Saint-Gobain Desjonquères:

  • 100cc (June 1981)




Natural Spray Cologne Flacons c1964-1977
These bottles were meant to hold eau de colognes of Guerlain's standard perfumes: Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit, Chamade, Liu and Chant D'Aromes. The bottles were probably made by either SGD or Pochet et du Courval. They are ribbed and look a little like the parapluie bottles, but have a black spray mechanism at the top, the name of the perfume is usually written in gold on a black band just below the cap, there is also a label on the base of the bottle. The bottle has a goldtone cap over the spray nozzle, it had a black plastic disk imprinted with a G for Guerlain on the top, this bottle was packaged in the same black and white boxes as some of the Montre bottles.


CLICK HERE TO FIND SHALIMAR COLOGNE (EDC)




Shalimar Eau de Toilettes Guide:


Shalimar has been presented in various eau de toilette bottles over the years, ranging from splash bottles to sprays. Shalimar Toilet Water debuted in 1925 in a splash bottle, succeeded by the Toilet Water Spray (Eau de Toilette around 1959) . This guide will help you identify and date your bottles.

You may still be able to find the following:
  • Eau de Toilette Spray 2.5 fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Spray 1.7fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Gold Bee Bottle 16.9fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette Gold Bee Bottle 33.8fl oz
  • Eau de Toilette White Bee Bottle 16.9fl oz
  • Habit De Fete Eau de Toilette Spray Refill 3.1fl oz
  • Shalimar Light Eau de Toilette Spray 2.5fl oz


Flacon Goutte (Teardrop Bottle) c1923-2001
Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’.

Different manufacturers:
  • 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 8 to 9cm/3.15" to 3.54" (1973) replaced by 50ml - 8.9 cm (1983-1988)
  • 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 12 to 13cm/4.72" to 5.12" (1938) replaced by 100ml - 12.5 cm (1983-1994)
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16 to 17cm/6.3" to 6.69" (1923) replaced by 250ml - 16.8 cm (1983-1995)
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 20 to 21cm/7.87" to 8.27" (1923-2001)
  • 1 liter - 25 to 26cm/9.84" to 10.24" (1923-1999)

Stoppers:
  • 1923-1973: ground glass
  • 1973-1980: glass with plastic dowel
  • 1980-1987: gilded glass with screw on plastic dowel
  • 1987-2002: glass with plastic dowel

Labels:
  • 1923-1979: newsprint dolphin label
  • 1980-1987: Black and gold oval label
  • 1987-2001: no label, silkscreened serigraphy on bottle instead



Eau de Toilette Travel Bottle with Atomizer c1960s-1970s

This particular bottle dates to 1967, based on the date on the box. The bottle was used for demonstration purposes so that customers could test the fragrance. It was not meant for resale.




Delft Style Refillable Atomizers c1968

The 1960s also saw a different type of bottle for Shalimar eau de toilette, this was a cylindrical metal bottle which housed a 3fl oz glass spray vial which could be replaced with a new refill when finished. The metal bottle was enameled with blue and white Oriental designs. This copyrighted design was launched in 1968. Other scents were packaged in similar looking enameled cases.




Flacon Louis XVI c1977-1983


Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of Apres L'Ondee, Muguet, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Violette a deux Sous, Le Bon Vieux Temps, Ai Loe and others. Flacon has also been used for special limited editions for export such as Chamade, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Vetiver, L'Heure Bleue, Apres L'Ondee, Jicky.



Shalimar Eau de Toilette, circa 1977-1983. Photo from worthpoint


Limited Edition Eau de Toilette c1984
Limited edition 1 oz eau de toilette spray. This bottle was also used for a limited edition eau de cologne in the same year.


photo by ebay seller luxuryluver



Gold Refillable Atomizers c1981-1989

In the 1980s, gold purse sprays were available for all scents and the original Shalimar bottle got a modern makeover and now came with a plastic cap and spray nozzle. The original bottle continued to be made, but for the Parfum only. In 1981, a limited edition gold tone cylindrical bottle was offered with a glass spray bottle, which could be replaced with a new refill when finished.These gold bottles hosted all Guerlain eau de toilette fragrances at one point between 1981 and 1989.


Eau de Toilette Spray Flacon c1966-1983

This spray bottle design was also used for the Film Spray (light moisturizing lotion in spray form), launched in 1966 . Notice the box design on the 1983 version.





















c1983. Shalimar Eau De Toilette Atomizer 1.7 oz. Photo by ebay seller ezlisting.


Shalimar Eau de Toilette c1980-1983
Shalimar Eau de Toilette c1980s. Peach colored box with an embossed zig zag pattern and gilded frame surrounded the perfume name and information. This is an unusual presentation and is not commonly seen up for sale.





Footless Chauve Souris c1995-2000

The footless Chauve Souris bottle was first used for Shalimar eau de toilette in 1995 and later was used for its eau de cologne as well. The eau de toilette had a blue cap/stopper and the later versions of the eau de cologne had a frosted white cap/stopper.



CLICK HERE TO FIND SHALIMAR EAU DE TOILETTE



Habit de Fete Refillable Atomizers c1997- present

As the millennium approached, Guerlain wanted a fresh, modern look for some of its bottles, and introduced the Habit de Fete limited edition bottles in 1997. These bottles are an updated version of it's classic refillable styles, but come in three different sizes. The bottles are a thick gold tone studded with silvery dots. Refills for these bottles can be found at the Guerlain counters or purchased online.


Shalimar Habit de Fete. 3.1 oz Eau de Toilette. Photo from ebay seller jackperfume

c1998 Anniversary Edition
This special bottle had a clear crystal stopper instead of the usual blue, and the bottle was filled with Eau de Parfum splash. It came in two sizes, 1 oz and 2 oz. It also came in a 4.2 oz Eau de Toilette splash. The box is a flocked midnight blue color.




c2000 Shalimar Edition Limitee Inverse

For this limited edition, Guerlain decided to have the bottle itself made up of a sapphire blue crystal and the stopper clear crystal, instead of the reverse. This was a 30ml size eau de parfum splash for 350 francs. It was also available in eau de toilette in the 125ml size for 500 francs.



Chauve Souris Eau de Toilette c2000-2010

This is a variation on the famous Chauve Souris flacon. This flacon was replaced in 2010 by the edition by Jade Jagger.





c2003 Shalimar Eau Legere Parfumee

2003-- Shalimar Eau Legere Parfumee, also known as Shalimar Light Fragrance, introduced in 2003, it skips the musky accord and goes from the cool lemon top into a warm vanilla heart. It was created by Mathilde Laurent, a young in-house Guerlain perfumer.



 



c2004 Shalimar Eau Legere Parfumee

In 2004, Jean Paul Guerlain slightly changed the composition and color of the perfume. It is lighter as the name suggests and less complex than the original Shalimar. Shalimar Eau Legere Parfumee was discontinued and replaced by Eau de Shalimar in 2008.



c2008 Eau de Shalimar

Eau de Shalimar by Guerlain is a oriental vanilla fragrance for women. Eau de Shalimar is a new fragrance and it was introduced in 2008. Top notes are orange, bergamot and lime; middle notes are rose and jasmine; base notes are vanilla, iris and resin. But according to Guerlain's own information, it's only a repackaging of the successful Shalimar Eau Légère Parfumée, composed by Mathilde Laurent in 2003. Jean-Paul Guerlain reworked it slightly in 2004 and the fragrance was then attributed to him.

CLICK HERE TO FIND EAU DE SHALIMAR























 

 
c2009 Fleur de Shalimar Flacons

Fleur de Shalimar 75ml eau de parfum and Eau de Shalimar Fleur 75ml eau de toilette, are two limited edition bottles for collectors. Guerlain explains that the perfumes were "created to celebrate the most bewitching and sensual note of the classic fragrance: vanilla blossom. Protective of its own rarity, it only blossoms for a few hours at sunrise. In awe of this quiet, intimate moment with vanilla flowers Guerlain set out to capture a second of eternity, etching its blossoms on the Shalimar bottle for two limited editions. The vanilla blossom on the voluptuous neck of the bottle underscores the perfume’s intensity, then appears in a precious, radiant hallmark - first in midnight blue on the glass of the bottle, then in gold on the packaging which shields its mysterious blossoming from observation". Only the bottles are different, the fragrance is unchanged.





c2010 Shalimar Edition Charms
Shalimar Edition Charms 75ml eau de parfum and Eau de Shalimar Edition Charms 75ml eau de toilette are two limited edition collector's flacons holding the usual juices. "The desire to experience sensuality, femininity, mystery...to succumb to SHALIMAR ÉDITION CHARMS, whose bottle decorated with Oriental motifs, evokes the splendors of India. Slender arabesques unfurl their delicate volutes over the bottle and box. They are inspired by the motifs on the rings worn by Indian women on every occasion, along with the embroidery admired on the shimmering colors of ceremonial saris. A blue silk thread is wound around the neck of the bottle, holding the famous golden "signet" engraved with the double G."


CLICK HERE TO FIND SHALIMAR EDITION CHARMS


 


Parfum de Toilettes c1987 - 1990

The Parfum de Toilette range was created around 1986 or 1987, and included Jicky, Liu, L'heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Nahema, Chamade, and Shalimar. According to Guerlain, Parfum de Toilette is their version of an Eau de Parfum - it's stronger than an eau de toilette and weaker than parfum extrait. Parfum de Toilette is no longer made - it has been replaced by Eau de Parfum, so whatever you find is vintage and definitely worth a sniff!

CLICK HERE TO FIND SHALIMAR PARFUM DE TOILETTE



Les Meteorites Case:
In the mid 1980s, Guerlain had the idea to create the Les Meteorites Collection.The collection was made up of gilded metal and colorful cloisonne enameled containers that could be refilled. "The Meteorites stand for GUERLAIN's exclusive style". 

Les Meteorites refillable natural spray limited edition from Guerlain Paris-15 ml Parfum de Toilette. The shape of the vaporizer is reminiscent of the forebears fob watch. Both sides are covered with the intricate, multi colored, rosette-shaped "cloisonne" enamel. The Les Meteorites Collection included small round 15ml purse spray flacons which could be recharged by inserting a new inner flacon of perfume. The scents available at the time were Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jicky, Chamade and Chant D'Aromes.

CLICK HERE TO FIND SHALIMAR LES METEORITES CASE




Eau de Parfum c1990 - Present

Guerlain added its first Eau de Parfum in 1990 with Samsara and the men's fragrance Heritage. The Eau de Parfums replaced the Parfum de Toilettes for nearly all of Guerlain's scents for men and women.
  • Eau de Parfum Spray 3.4fl oz 
  • Eau de Parfum Spray 2.5fl oz 
  • Eau de Parfum Spray 1.7fl oz 
  • Eau de Parfum Spray 1fl oz 
  • Eau de Parfum mini Parfum/Extrait 0.25fl oz


    5 comments:

    1. Wow! Excellent information. Thanks.

      ReplyDelete
    2. Do you know what typeset is used to spell "SHALIMAR" in gold letters on the current bottle? I'm in love with that typeset and want to use it to spell out my street address on my house. No, I'm not joking.

      ReplyDelete
      Replies
      1. Hi, great question. Currently Guerlain uses the Futura typeface. The original Guerlain name used Bodoni typeface.

        Delete
    3. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

      ReplyDelete
    4. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

      ReplyDelete

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    Welcome!

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