Saturday, January 18, 2014

Les Parfums de Gueldy

Les Parfums de Gueldy was established in 1905 by Lelaurin and A. Sergent at 370 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. Gueldy. Inc., also operated at 21 East 40th St.. New York.



By 1913, the company was later acquired by P. Thibaud et Cie, a major toilet articles company affiliated with Gibbs, an English toiletries and toothpaste company, established in 1712.

A. Sergent also established Parfums de Sergy in 1930, which produced lower priced perfumes and cosmetics and merged with Gueldy. Sergy was also reported as "Gerly".

Sergy MAY have been associated with Parfumerie Francelys, as one of their perfume bottles was the same shape.


The Pharmaceutical Era, 1924:
"Gueldy Inc. Perfumes have always been a problem for men, especially American men. In the old world it is common enough for men to apply perfume to the clothing just as women do, and barber shops of most of continental Europe are as much patronized for the odors they dispense as they are for hair cuts and shaves. The French perfume house of Gueldy has gone a long way in solving the problem of perfume for men. It is not that they ask men to use their products particularly, but they have endeavored to please men with their odors to such an extent they they will purchase the Gueldy brands for their women friends. If the men do not use perfume themselves, Gueldy would have them content to inhale the odors from these with whom they associate. Le Triomphe is the name of the line featured by the house of Gueldy. One of the new features being put out to the trade this spring is the 'French miniature' of the Triomphe brand of perfume assembled in the Paris factory.This year's catalog of Gueldy, Inc., is one of the most attractive in the long line of elaborate and expensive price books put out by perfumery houses. It is printed from six plates and shows the exact size and color of the firm's products. The cover is in imitation gold leather, embossed. Alfred E Boaz is general manager of Gueldy Inc in America." 

Gueldy became a major company with large exports. It won a gold medal at the 1925 Paris Exhibition.







The company was later acquired by the Lever Brothers.

The perfumes of Gueldy:

  • 1910 Sergy
  • 1910 Ador
  • 1910 Fougère de la Couronne 
  • 1910 La Closerie
  • 1910 Le Bois Sacre
  • 1910 La Flore de France
  • 1910 Les Mimosees
  • 1911 L'Empyree
  • 1911 La Feuilleraie
  • 1911 Clos de FĂ©es
  • 1911 L'Aigle Imperiale
  • 1912 Guzla
  • 1912 La Violette de Gueldy
  • 1912 Stellamare
  • 1912 Vasthi
  • 1912 Vision d'Orient
  • 1912 Vision de Paris
  • 1912 Vision Rouge
  • 1913 Le Muguet de Chantilly
  • 1913 Antar
  • 1913 Nazir
  • 1916 Imprevu
  • 1917 Gotic
  • 1917 Le Lys Rouge
  • 1918 La Rose de Gueldy
  • 1919 Le Billet Doux
  • 1919 Yato de Gueldy
  • 1920 Catedral
  • 1920 Le Triomphe
  • 1920 Loki
  • 1920 Le Chypre de Gueldy
  • 1921 Doux Songe
  • 1922 AlcĂ©e 
  • 1922 Gitanjali
  • 1922 Le Prestige
  • 1922 Le Jasmin de Gueldy
  • 1922 Le Lilas de Gueldy
  • 1922 Les Glycines
  • 1922 Mirage
  • 1923 Le Muguet de Gueldy
  • 1928 Gueldiana
  • late 1920s Kiss Khial
  • 1929 Bal des Fleurs
  • 1929 Cyclamen
  • 1929 Heliotrope
  • 1935 Ambre
  • 1935 Carnation
  • Au Pays Bleu
  • Les Muscadins 
  • Les Ondes
  • RĂŞve de Coquette 

Other products by Gueldy c1934:


Brilliantine:
  • Ador
  • Bal des Fleurs
  • Gotic
  • Feuilleraie
  • La Rose
  • La Violette
  • Le Bois Sacre
  • Le Chypre
  • Le JasmĂ­n
  • Le Lilas
  • Le Lys Rouge
  • Le Muguet
  • Le Prestige
  • Les Ondes
  • Le Triomphe
  • Mirage
  • Vasthi
  • Vision D'Orient


Day Cream
Night Cream
Massage Cream

Talc:
  • Le Triomphe


The Perfume Bottles of Gueldy:


Gueldy's perfumes were housed in a myriad of beautiful bottles over the years, with many of them in the finest crystal by both Baccarat and Cristallerie d'Art de Choisy le Roi.

Baccarat bottles:
  • #391 - for the perfume Le Triomphe
  • #392 - for the perfume Loki
  • #430 - for the perfume L'Empyree
  • #711 - for the perfumes Ambre, Bal des Fleurs (bottle also used by Guerlain)

Julien Viard designed some bottles for Gueldy:
  • Ador
  • Cathedral
  • Gotic
  • ImprĂ©vu
  • La Feuilleraie
  • Le Lys Rouge
  • Le Prestige
  • Le Triomphe (not the Baccarat bottle)
  • Les Gylcines
  • Loki (not the Baccarat bottle)
  • Nazir
  • Stellamare


Henri Saumont also made or designed artwork for these bottles:
  • Berceuse
  • GuĂ©ldiana


Andre Jollivet designed this bottle:
  • Vision d'Orient


Be wary of the proliferation of loose paper labels being sold on ebay and other websites such as delcampe, unscrupulous sellers may be buying these and affixing them to less expensive bottles and trying to pass them off as genuine antiques. It would be in your best interest to study as many vintage advertisements as you can find so that you can compare the bottles offered for sale with those that were originally sold by Gueldy.




Le Triomphe de Gueldy:


Le Triomphe was launched in 1912. It was a full line of products including: perfume (extrait), talc, brilliantine, eau de toilette, poudre a sachet (sachet powder), face powder, and lotion vegetale. The face powder boxes for Le Triomphe were interestingly designed and show a white elephant in various poses on a box of black, turquoise and gold.

The bottle shown to the left is Baccarat model number 391 from 1918.

It was stopped just as World War I began and resumed production immediately after the war ended. Re-launched in a new version (reformulated) and presented in a bottle designed by Julien Viard. 1924 - During one week the lobby of the State Theatre was perfumed with Le Triomphe perfume, made by Gueldy, and placards displayed called attention to that fact. Le Triomphe is classified as a soft floral fragrance for women with top notes of bergamot and lily of the valley, middle notes of ylang ylang, rose and orange blossom, and base notes of almond, musk and sandalwood.


New York Times, 1922:
"Smelling the Triomphe de Gueldy is like breathing in the language of love. It will agitate the heart and add honey to the tongue. A truly skillful lover knows that Triomphe de Gueldy expresses all that he wants to say, and does it, oh so effectively. Every woman of sense understands the message of its delightful, pure fragrance." 


La Feuilleraie:

Launched in 1911, La Feuilleraie was a full line of products including: perfume (extrait), talc, brilliantine, eau de toilette, poudre a sachet (sachet powder), face powder, and lotion vegetale.La Feuilleraie is classified as a woody floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: neroli, bergamot, and lemon
  • Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom, sage, oregano, and juniper
  • Base notes: almond, sandalwood, leather, tobacco, musk, and ambergris










Le Bois Sacre:

It is classified as a woody floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top notes: green notes, bergamot, neroli, ,lemon
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orange blossom and violet
  • Base notes: amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, cedar




Gotic:

Clear and frosted glass perfume bottle, hexagonal lantern shaped, molded with a stylized floral pattern, with the same decor on the stopper, piqued out in patina or thick enamel, with embossed gold or polychrome label mimicking stained glass. Designed by Julien Viard.



La Closerie:

This perfume was released in 1910 in a suberb frosted glass bottle. Maker unknown, probably Depinoix or Choisy le Roi.




La Violette de Gueldy:

It is classified as a sweet woody floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: fruity notes, bergamot, cylcamen
  • Middle notes: violet, almond blossom, lily of the valley, iris, jasmine, lilac
  • Base notes: orris, violet leaves, sandalwood, musk





Gueldiana:




Mirage:


The earliest date I found for Mirage was a 1922 newspaper ad. The bottle was designed by Julien Viard.





Gitanjali:


Gitanjali is classified as an oriental chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: mandarin, galbanum, neroli and bergamot 
  • Middle notes: iris, osmanthus, jasmine, orange blossom, and rose
  • Base notes: amber, patchouli, frankincense, myrrh, musk and oakmoss



Le Billet Doux:

Le Billet Doux is classified as a fougere fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: galbanum, bergamot, green notes
  • Middle notes: lavender
  • Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk and oakmoss




Vasthi:

Launched in 1913,Vasthi was a full line of products including: perfume (extrait), talc, brilliantine, eau de toilette, poudre a sachet (sachet powder), face powder, and lotion végétale. The parfum bottle was designed by Maurice Daillet.

Nazir:






Le Lys Rouge:

The Red Lily was launched in 1918. The fabulous frosted glass bottle was designed by Julien Viard.




Le Prestige:

Launched in 1922, this clear and frosted glass perfume bottle is molded with "Le Prestige" along the top, highlighted with sepia patina, figural stopper of a winged female sitting down with legs crossed, also highlighted with sepia patina. Designed by Julien Viard.



Fougère a la Couronne:

Fougere a la Couronne is classified as a floral fougere fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lavender 
  • Middle notes: violet, orris
  • Base notes: cedar, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk and oakmoss


Stellamare:


Launched in 1922. Julien Viard designed perfume bottle in clear and frosted glass, molded with mermaid and undersea motifs. Frosted glass stopper molded with flower. Gilded foil label.


Ador:

It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. 
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, lavender
  • Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom and ylang ylang
  • Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, vanilla, and tonka bean



Ambre:


It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: orange, lemon, plum, and bergamot
  • Middle notes: frankincense, myrrh, incense, styrax, and amber
  • Base notes: musk, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, ambergris, and sandalwood

Vision d'Orient:



Doux Songe:
















The perfumes of Sergy:

  • 1925 Anita Page
  • 1925 Bessie Love
  • 1925 Leila Hymans
  • 1925 Raquel Torres
  • 1925 RenĂ©e AdorĂ©e
  • 1930 Promesse d'Amour
  • 1932 Sweet Magnolia
  • 1949 Privilège
  • 1950 Amour de Vous
  • 1950 Billet Doux
  • 1950 Rose Mary
  • 1953 Cloche Victorie
  • 1953 Pomme d’Or
  • 1953 Siva
  • 1953 Succès
  • 1953 Criterion
  • 1953 Poppys's
  • 1954 Eventail
  • Belle de Mai


CLICK HERE TO FIND GUELDY PERFUME ON EBAY

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This is not your average perfume blog. In each post, I present perfumes or companies as encyclopedic entries with as much facts and photos as I can add for easy reading and researching without all the extraneous fluff or puffery.

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