Safari by Ralph Lauren c1989

Safari by Ralph Lauren, first launched in 1989 in association with Cosmair, Inc.(division of L'Oreal), was inspired by the exotic African safari.

Gourielli

Established in 1941 by Helena Rubinstein who was married to Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia, a Russian prince from Georgia . Princess Gourielli (Helena Rubinstein) opened the Gourielli Shop, an old fashioned brownstone front on E. 55th Street, Manhattan, that she turned into a fabulous cosmetic emporium selling old apothecary recipes combined with new scientific formulas.  The shop combined several different decorative themes which combined Old Apothecary, Early American, Victorian American, Modern and Mexican.

Parfumerie Lina Cavalieri

After retiring from the stage, opera star Natalina "Lina" Cavalieri ran a cosmetic salon in Paris.

Like other beauties of the stage, Lina had endorsed other brands in the early 1900s. Palmolive and Gelle Freres were two of the most well known companies that she used her celebrity status for their advantage.

Ellen Betrix

Ellen Betrix was first established  as a German cosmetics brand founded in 1935 in Dreieich-Sprendlingen (Pfalz), best known for their lipsticks, nail polish and other makeup products exported worldwide.

Princess Pat Cosmetics & Perfumes

Princess Pat LTD, established in 1921 by Patricia FB Gordon,who was the president of the company,  later traded under the names "Gordon & Gordon" and finally  "House of Gordon'".

Nelson, Baker & Co.

Nelson Baker & Co. of 61 Brooklyn Avenue, Detroit, Michigan. Subsidiary of Penslar Stores.

Jean Stuart Cosmetics, Inc.

Jean Stuart Cosmetics Inc. of 535 Fifth Ave, New York, established in 1928. Launched a range of cosmetics, toiletries, and fragrances starting in 1929.

Parfumerie Diaphane

Established in 1881 by Mr. A. Reverchon at 48 avenue Parmentier, Paris. Reverchon created a rice powder for the face in 1879 and named it La Diaphane, he named his company after his best selling product.

Parfumerie Diaphane exported its products around two-thirds in most of Europe, in Indo-China to Japan in the Caribbean and off the coast of Pacific.

Parfumerie Diaphane was located at 4 rue Edith-Cavell, Courbevoie, Seine, France.

Lucille Young Cosmetics

There was a very famous Lucille Young, she was a silent film star from Lyons, France. 1892-August 2, 1934. Whether this Lucille is the same as the one who created the cosmetics company or not, I have no idea.

All products found date circa 1900-1930s, products included: wrinkle treatment, skin cleanser, skin whitener, masque, wrinkle masque, hand beautiful treatment., wrinkle massage, bust massage, figure massage, tissue cream, mascara, nail enamel and possibly more.

From a 1920 Photoplay Magazine advertisement:

“Banish Coarse Pores! My methods have brought beauty to thousands. Let me rid you of coarse pores, wrinkles, blackheads, pimples, freckles and superfluous hair. This portrait is my proof of that my beauty methods accomplish. My heart goes out to every girl and woman who has an ambition to be admired. You owe it to yourself to be attractive, admired and courted and I am proud that it is my privilege to help you. 

I want you to know the methods used by famous actresses, society leaders and movie stars, mail the coupon below. I will send you free, my new work ”Stepping Stones To Beauty”, containing full and complete information of my methods and how to use them, in the privacy of your own home, and with the same wonderful results of which thousands of others have had. This knowledge has cost me years of patient, faithful and scientific research. Send no money, write your name and address plainly and you will receive at once, complete information on the following beauty methods:

• To Banish/Refine Coarse Pores
• To Banish Wrinkles
• To Banish Blackheads, Pimples, Tan, Freckles and Oily Skin
• To Beautify the Figure, Hands and Arms.
• To Remove Superfluous Hair
• To Grow Beautiful Eyebrows and Eyelashes
• To Clear the Skin of Acne
• For Beautiful Hair 

Lucille Young, Room 107-1010, Lucille Young Building, Chicago, Ill."

Below are two photos of Lucille Young (the actress, photos from Washington University)

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Marcelle Perfumes & Cosmetics

Marcelle was a line from the CW Beggs & Sons Company from Illinois. The Marcelle line included perfumes, toiletries, hair products and cosmetics in the 1920s-1930s.

Some of the perfumes in the Marcelle line included:

• 1923 Lilac Vegetale Hair Lotion
• 1932 Rose
• 1932 Narcissus
• 1832 Oriental
• 1932 Lilac
• Damascus

There isn't much to be found on this company. I did happen to find a legal document with the following:

"C. W. Beggs Sons & Co., an Illinois corporation with place of business at Chicago, 111., also operated under the trade names Marcelle Cosmetics and Marcelle Hypo-Allergenic Cosmetics, engaged in the sale and distribution of a line of cosmetics under the trade or brand designation "Marcelle" in interstate commerce, in competition with corporations, firms, and individuals likewise engaged, entered into the following agreement to cease and desist from the alleged unfair methods of competition in commerce as set forth therein. C. W. Beggs Sons & Co., whether trading under its own name, as Marcelle Cosmetics, Marcelle Hypo-Allergenic Cosmetics, or by any other designation or style, in connection with the sale and distribution of its commodities in commerce as defined by the Federal Trade Com-mission Act, or the advertising thereof by the means or in the manner above set forth, agreed that it will forthwise cease and desist from representing : That thousands of doctors have prescribed Marcelle Hypo-Allergenic Cosmetics, or that any numbers in excess of the true total thereof have so approved or recommended the same. C. W. Beggs Sons & Co. also agreed that should it ever resume or indulge in any of the aforesaid methods, acts, or practices which It has herein agreed to discontinue, or in the event the Commission should issue its complaint and institute formal proceedings against the respondent as provided herein, this stipulation as to the facts and agreement to cease and desist, if relevant, may be received in such proceedings as evidence of the prior use by the respondent of the methods." .

Rodin & Merle Norman Perfumes

Rodin Paris was established by Merle Norman (S.A.R.L.) at 9 rue Auber, Paris in 1946. JB Nethercutt was the co-founder along with his aunt, Merle Nethercutt Norman, of Merle Norman Cosmetics.

Solon Palmer Perfumes

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Solon Palmer of New York, NY from 1878 to 1947. Established by Solon Palmer (1823 -1903) of Cincinnati, Ohio in 1847 as a Perfumer & Chemist; a perfume and toiletry company.

In 1870, he opened a branch at 12 Platt St. New York, shortly afterwards he moved to 372, 374 & 376 Pearl St., and by 1892 the company was continued by his son Eddy Palmer, later it was taken over by Solon M. Palmer, Palmer remained in business up until 1947.

Palmer's early beginnings selling his Palmer's Invisible, a ladies face powder, his Handkerchief Extracts, and toilet soaps helped project sales of his products. Later he added other products to his lines: Powders, Sachet Powders, Rouges, Lotions, Cold Creams, Tissue Creams, Perfumes, Brilliantine & Lip Stick.

Early cologne bottles were made of a beautiful shade of deep emerald green or rich teal in color and were usually the lay down types. Later bottles are clear glass, or light aqua glass and are cylindrical or hourglass shaped..

Click HERE to find Solon Palmer perfume 

In 1851, an advertisement reads:

"Solon Palmer - Perfumer & Chemist and wholesale & retail dealer in every description of perfumery, fine soaps, combs, brushes and toilet articles in general. Also Western Agent for Bazin's (late Roussel's) Perfumery."

An 1886 advertisement giveaway booklet on square dancing, Solon Palmer advertised himself as "the leading perfumer in America, established in 1847". It also listed 45 handkerchief perfumes.

An endorsement appears on the back of a trade card from New York, April 12th, 1884, "I unhesitantly pronounce your Perfumery Toilet Soaps and other toilet articles superior to any I ever used" signed Adelina Patti, who was a world famous soprano opera singer at the time, endorsing this product.

Solon Palmer produced over 100 perfumes from 1885-1920's, I listed all I could find, I know there are more to be found. If I missed one, please let me know. Some of the 1920's perfumes may have had earlier launch dates than shown. I listed the perfumes as found in advertisements of the era. I also added "circa dates" to some perfumes where I couldn't find an exact date. Sometimes you might find tax stamps on the bottles, generally these are good indicators of age.


Obituary:

Solon Palmer

Annual Meeting of the Manufacturing Perfumers' Association of the ..., Volume 9, 1903:

"Solon Palmer, one of the oldest and most widely known perfumers of America was born at Alstead, NH on Feb 3, 1823 and died at his home 622 West End Avenue New York City on Monday Jan 19, 1903. Educated in the common schools of his native place, he engaged in teaching at the age of sixteen years taking a place in the local school. A year or two later, he removed to Ohio where for a time he had charge of a country school. While prosecuting advanced studies, he developed a taste for chemistry and this directed his attention to medicine as a life profession. When of age he had fully determined to become a physician and going to Cincinnati entered upon a course of medical study. The journey was made by crossing Pennsylvania by canal to Pittsburgh and thence down the Ohio River to destination. 

Mr. Palmer began the manufacture of perfumes at Cincinnati in 1847. In this new line of effort, he derived marked advantages from his previous scientific training. Proceeding cautiously and satisfied with nothing short of substantial results, he soon developed a profitable business and his products became widely known. In 1870, he transferred his business to New York City, and entered upon the manufacture of perfumery in a large way at No 12 Piatt Street. Shortly afterwards, he removed his plant and offices to Nos 374 and 376 Pearl Street where he continued the manufacture up to the date of his demise, being at that time the oldest perfumer in the United States actively engaged in business, and the acknowledged dean of the perfume industry in America, although not widely known personally in the trade, as he did not make a practice of attending trade meetings.  

Mr. Palmer was probably the first American to engage in the manufacture of perfumery on a commercial scale. From the beginning he was loyal to the retail drug trade and the perfumes and toilet soaps of his manufacture were made exclusively for this trade. He was a man of untiring energy and gave his personal attention unremittingly to his business down to the time of his fatal illness. Mr Palmer had a love for reading and study and ripened into a man of fine literary and artistic tastes with a mind well informed on a wide variety of topics.  

In religious belief a Universalist, he became quite prominent in the affairs of that denomination. While residing in Cincinnati he was a member of the old Plum Street Congregation. Upon taking up his residence in the East he joined the Church of the Good Shepard in Jersey City, and for many years was President of its Board of Trustees. After establishing his residence in New York he joined the Church of the Eternal Hope. He took an active interest in charitable work, and at all times his means and counsel were at the service of the church he loved. and in which he shone as an exemplary member. He was a just and generous man. reverencing integrity in the spirit and conduct of others. and practicing it in his own. 

His business career was a brilliant example of success honorably achieved and worthily employed. Mr. Palmer leaves a widow and two children. Mr. Eddy Palmer his partner and successor and Mrs. George Coon."

The perfumes of Solon Palmer:

• 1868 Fashion
• 1868 Frangipani
• 1868 Garland of Roses
• 1868 Garland of Violets
• 1868 Lilac Sweets
• 1868 Marvel of Peru
• 1868 May Bloom
• 1868 Rob Roy
• 1868 Violet Bloom
• 1878 India Bouquet, reintroduced in 1892
• 1879 Frangipanni 
• 1879 White Lilac
• 1879 White Rose
• 1880 Florida Water
• 1880 Tiffany Studios Tantalus
• 1880 Victoria
• 1884 Golden Lily of Japan
• 1884 Bouquet de Caroline
• 1884 Darling  Kisses
• 1884 Floralina
• 1884 Jasmine
• 1884 Magnolia
• 1884 Mille Fleurs
• 1884 Moss Rose
• 1884 Mousseline
• 1884 Night Blooming Cereus
• 1884 Pink
• 1884 Rose
• 1884 Rose Geranium
• 1884 Solon Palmer's Fountain of Perfume
• 1884 Spring Flowers
• 1884 Stephanotis
• 1884 Sweet Brier
• 1884 Sweet Clover
• 1884 Sweet Pea
• 1884 Tea Rose
• 1884 Tuberose
• 1884 Upper Ten
• 1884 Verbena
• 1884 West End
• 1884 White Pond Lily
• 1885 Chautauqua Bouquet
• 1890 Locust Sweets
• 1892 Baby Ruth
• 1893 Carnation Pink
• 1893 Cordelia
• 1893 Crab Apple Blossom
• 1893 Heliotrope
• 1893 Ihlang Ihlang
• 1893 India Bouquet 
• 1893 Jockey Club
• 1893 Lilac Sweets 
• 1893 May Bloom 
• 1893 New Mown Hay
• 1893 White Heliotrope
• 1894 Our Jack
• 1898 Dewey Bouquet
• 1900 Apple Leaves
• 1900 Ariston
• 1900 Bay Rum Perfume
• 1900 Cyrano
• 1900 Red Clover
• 1900 Rose Leaves
• 1900 Violet Leaves
• 1903 Baby Ruth 
• 1903 Chautauqua Bouquet Garland (as applied to Perfumes Soaps and Toilet Articles)
• 1903 Gem Violet 
• 1903 Our Jack Palmer's Prefixed to Perfumes 
• 1903 Red Clover 
• 1903 Rob Roy 
• 1903 Rose Leaves 
• 1903 Violet Bloom 
• 1903 Violet Leaves 
• 1904 American Carnation Pink
• 1904 Lily of the Valley
• 1904 Palmer's Bay Rum Perfume
• 1904 Wistaria
• 1906 Rose Girl
• 1906 Violet Girl
• 1907 Alberta
• 1908 Alpine Bouquet
• 1908 Curio
• 1908 Natural Perfumes Line
• 1910 Echo
• 1910 Gem
• 1910 Lily of the Valley
• 1910 Narcissus
• 1910 Orange Blossom
• 1910 Sweet Peas
• 1910 Wisteria
• 1913 Gardenglo Line (a floral perfume)
• 1920 Honeysuckle
• 1920 Musk
• 1920 Orange Flower
• 1920 Orchidlily (an aldehydic perfume)
• 1920 Patchouly
• 1920 Pinkfleur
• 1920 Sandalwood de Oriente
• 1920 White Heliotrope
• 1922 Arbutus
• 1922 Egyptian Lotus
• 1922 Gem Rose
• 1922 Rosefleur
• 1922 Viofleur
• 1922 Violet Bloom
• 1923 Glenecho
• 1925 Narcisfleur
• 1926 Brocade, reintroduced in 1939 (a spicy floral perfume)
• 1926 American Memories
• 1928 Fiesta (an oriental perfume)
• 1929 Black Tulip
• 1929 Desert Primrose
• 1929 Gold Leaf
• 1930 Gene Palmer
• 1933 Gardenia
• 1934 White Rose
• 1939 Dress Parade (an aldehydic perfume)
• 1940 Inaugural Ball
• 1942 Queen Victoria
• 1945 English Lavender
• 1946 Solon Palmer
• 1947 Eau de Cologne
• 1947 Centennial Bouquet
• Hills Devon Gardens

Perfume facts:

• The perfume Frangipanni was "a perfume of rare excellence" and reputedly a favorite of Swedish singer Jenny Lind.
• The perfume Rob Roy was created as "a combination of sweetness and strength", in honor of the Scottish hero.
• Our Jack was a perfume based on the Jack Rose, short for Jacqueminot rose, named after J. M. Jacqueminot (1787–1865) a French nobleman and general, and was advertised as "sweeter than the rose". The Jack Rose is a naturally beautiful rose that is dark pink, almost red in color.
• Violet Bloom was a true violet perfume, and Lilac Sweets was the perfect lilac odor.
• During the second World War, patriotism helped to market perfumes and beauty products, Dress Parade Perfume by Solon Palmer was advertised in 1939 as "The Perfume of Victory."

Melba Perfumes

Melba Manufacturing Company. Established by Frances W. Jones at 4237 Indiana Ave, Chicago in 1908; bought out by Vivaudou/Vadsco Sales in 1926.

Melba produced toiletries including perfume, toilet waters, powders, nail products, deodorant, rouge, lipsticks, face cream, face massage cream, skin creams, skin lotion, tissue cream, hand cream, talcum, skin cleanser and men's shaving products. By 1942, Melba was no longer in business.

Mary Quant Perfumes

In 1967, clothing designer Mary Quant presented her line of perfumes for women.

Harriet Hubbard Ayer

Established by Harriet Hubbard at East 34th Street, New York in 1886; born in 1850 in Chicago; renowned for her HHA label which she created in 1886, launched her first perfume in 1922; also produced toiletries and cosmetics. She also sold perfumes under the pseudonym of Lillian Dodge in 1922.

Zutz Cosmetics Company

The Zutz Cosmetics Company was started by Henry E. and Julia Zutz in St. Paul, Minnesota, in 1923. They made by hand, a variety of women's perfumes and cosmetics in small batches for specialty shops of their time.

Henry was trained as a pharmacist and worked in that field for years before starting his own cosmetics company.

They ceased production completely by 1946.

Tanty Perfumes

Tanty Parfumeurs was located in Corning, New York and had an office in Paris; they were the successors to Corning Tappan and launched a range of fragrances around 1900, they were still in business in 1922. They produced toilet waters, extracts, sachets, cosmetics, toiletries and face powders. McCreery's, Gimbel's and Joseph Horne Co's stores sold their products.

Venetian Ceruse

Today women are scrambling for products that promote skin whitening, to remove blemishes, scars and unevenness of the skin tone. Much of the skin flaws are caused by acne, accidental scars, and too much sun exposure. Few know that this cosmetic was in use for centuries by many types of people, especially the wealthy.

Mais Oui by Bourjois c1938

Mais Oui by Bourjois: launched in 1939. Mais Oui, pronounced MA-WEE, which means “certainly," or “but yes!" in French.

Aubry Sisters Toiletries & Cosmetics

The Aubry Sisters were an exclusive song-and-dance team from  big comic opera company who started appearing on stage around 1904. They usually worked the vaudeville circuit well into the late 1920s and their most famous act was "The Doll Dance."

 Their cosmetic company was established in Toledo, Ohio around 1910, the Aubry Sisters company sold cosmetics and toiletries, they apparently were a short lived company, closing around 1925.
Their main office appears to be 153 West 23rd  Street in New York City.

Their cosmetics were sold at department stores and often had demonstrators.

Some of their cosmetics and toiletry products:

• Liquid rouge
• Dry rouge
• Greaseless cream
• Beautifier face powder
• Facial massage cream
• Hair tonic
• Tooth powder
• Cold cream
• Depilatory powder
• Witch hazel
• Beautifier soap

advertisement from 1910

c1912 ad

photos of the Aubrey Sisters brochure by ebay seller mike-force