Thursday, January 23, 2014

Parfums Ramses

Parfums Ramses of Paris France & Cairo Egypt. Established in 1916 by M. de Bertalot with Orosdi-Back. Ramses became a major exporter to Africa and the Far East, with offices in Paris and Istanbul.





Opened a sumptuous shop that had five monumental marble figures of pharaohs on the exterior. This elegant façade was destroyed in 1929 after the company had failed.

Products of lower quality bearing the Ramses named had existed until the 1940s.

Ramses was best known for having created luxurious perfume presentations with ancient Egyptian themes.

The Orosdi Company was a successful perfume exporter managed by Leon Orosdi, the heir of founder Emile Orosdi who had made a fortune exporting Bourjois products to the Orient.

Theatre Magazine, 1923:
"The Vanity Box prides itself on the fact that it is nothing if nor up-to-date. And so we have as soon as possible fallen in line with that universally predominant interest of the moment, the interest in the Tut-Ankh-Amen explorations and the land of Egypt. The reign of Egypt, and things Egyptian, is established in the mode. We have the Egyptian silhouette for frocks, and hats, and headdresses. We have on them Egyptian motifs and embroidery. We have Egyptian fashioned jewelry, we have Egyptian sandals. And now we have some wonderful Egyptian perfumes. it is with those that we concern ourselves this month.

Understand, though, that these particular perfumes are not just Egyptian in character, not just opportunity called Egyptian to suit the fad of the hour. But the real article, direct from Cairo, products as truly exotic and of the country as King Tut-Ankh-Amen himself. Blended there by the famous Egyptian firm Ramses, who have been perfumers to European royalty since 1683, these perfumes are bottled in Paris. And having become all the rage in Paris, and in London, New York is now being given its chance at them. 

At least that's Selena Royle's story, "she sticks to it," and we see no possible reason for doubting her. 

It was from Miss Royle, who is playing the ever-faithful Solveig in Peer Gynst, that we learned of these very marvelous Egyptian perfumes. She has been one of those most interested n the "Tut" explorations...in fact in everything connected with Egypt since a recent trip to Cairo where she fell under the spell - as who doesn't? - of the mystery and exotic charm of the Land of the Nile. An ardent admirer, knowing this and wishing to lay an offering on her birthday shrine, sent Miss Royle one of these Egyptian perfumes...We were shown the bottle, a most delicious affair of Baccarat crystal - and the name Baccarat stands for the last word de luxe in crystal bottles - shaped like a mummy case. The perfume it contained was called "Le Secret du Sphinx" and was considered to have a special affinity for blondes, Miss Royle was told. 

So enchanted was she with this perfume that wishing in her turn to make a present she went out to see if she could find the same thing. And not only did she find "The Secret of the Sphinx" but two other Ramses creations at the same place: "Ramses IV" and "Ivresse d'Amour," "The Intoxication of Love" - an enchanting name, n'est-ce-pas?, and an enchanting perfume...

"Literally," says Miss Royle, and adds smiling," In fact I think an excellent name for all these odors would be "vamping perfumes." They have the most luring way of clinging, of hanging round without being too pervasive or too heavy."

Miss Royle had us "all stirred up" as the saying goes, over the perfumes. We proceeded at once to hunt up their importer, and verified all that had been told us. We found the delight and mystery of the East in their essences, compounded from secret formulas that have been handed down since the days of the Pharaohs. In them is a touch of musk, of incense, of amber, of aromatic spices. They made us think of Stevenson's famous line, "musky, dusky, vivid, true," which though invoked for a woman is quite as applicable for a perfume. We were told that they were among the most expensive perfumes manufactured in the world, "Ramsès IV" and "Ivresse d'Amour," for instance, selling for twenty-five dollars a bottle. 

Sequentially we have a nice little tid-bit to offer. In order to acquaint you with these Egyptian perfumes the importers have made an arrangement with us, whereby for 50 cents they will send you a bag-sized bottle, in a silver-gilt container, of any of these three odors mentioned. To help you in your selection we suggest "Sphinx d'Or" for blondes; "Ramsès IV" for brunettes; and "Ivresse d'Amour" for intermediates,"" though," says Miss Royle, "you may 'vamp' equally well with any of them." There is a long glass stopper in the bottle, with which you may perfume your cigarettes, perfumed cigarettes being the latest fad among certain exclusives. 

(You may obtain a bag sized bottle of any one of these three vamping Egyptian perfumes Sphinx d Or Ramsès IV or Ivresse d Amour by sending fifty cents in stamps or money order to The Vanity Box, care the THEATRE MAGAZINE, 2 West 45th St., New York City.)"





The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, 1916:
"The perfumes of Egypt. The mystery, the subtlety, the fascination of the East, has been caught and translated into some exotic new perfume actually distilled in Egypt. We shall present these perfumes to the women of America for the first time tomorrow. Secret de Femme, Hanem, L'Etoile d'Egypte, Rose Antique, L'Ivresse d'Amour, Temr Henna, Secret du Sphinx, Folie d'Opium. Each one is unusual and different and has been most charmingly bottled. The large flasks are $12.75, but smaller ones may be had at $1.25. Savon de Ramses are round balls of soap wrapped in satin, 40 cents a cake. A unique hand-painted case which suggests the top of a mummy case, contains a whole collection of these amazing fragrances. It is $60."


According to an inflation calculator, I have adjusted the 1916 prices accordingly:

According to an inflation calculator, I have adjusted prices accordingly:
  • The deluxe perfumes at $12.75 in 1916 would cost $365.31 in 2023. 
  • The cheaper bottles in plain glass bottles with frosted stoppers at $1.25 in 1916 would cost $35.81 in 2023.
  • The soaps at 40 cents per cake in 1916 would cost $11.46 in 2023.
  • The luxurious mummy case containing the perfumes cost $60 in 1916, is equivalent to $1,719.09 in 2023.
  • Ambre de Nubie retailed for $16.25 in 1920, is equivalent to $248.15 in 2023.
  • Secret du Sphinx retailed for $20.00 in 1920, is equivalent to $305.42  in 2023.
  • Linkerie retailed for $6.50 in 1922, is equivalent to $117.09 in 2023.
  • Sphinx d'Or retailed for $37.00 in 1922, is equivalent to $662.56 in 2023.
  • Hycsos retailed for $17 in 1922, is equivalent to $304.42 in 2023.
  • Ramses IV retailed for $25.00 in 1923, is equivalent to $447.68 in 2023.
  • Sidon retailed for $8.98 in 1923, is equivalent to $160.81 in 2023.
  • Douce Melodie retailed for $9.95 in 1923, is equivalent to $178.18 in 2023.
  • Ioldys retailed for $11.50 in 1923, is equivalent to $205.93.















The perfumes of Ramses:

  • 1916 L'Etoile de Egypte
  • 1916 Secret de Femme
  • 1916 Hanem
  • 1916 Temr Henna
  • 1916 Rose Antique (still sold in 1927)
  • 1916 Le Secret du Sphinx (still sold in 1927)
  • 1916 L'Ivresse d'Amour
  • 1916 Folie d'Opium
  • 1918 Lotus Sacre
  • 1919 Ramses IV
  • 1920 Sidon (still sold in 1923)
  • 1920 Ioldys (still sold in 1927)
  • 1920 Ambre de Nubie (still sold in 1927)
  • 1920 Sphinx D'Or (still sold in 1932)
  • 1920 Chypre
  • 1920 Origan
  • 1920 Narcisse
  • 1920 Rose
  • 1920 Lilac
  • 1920 Violette
  • 1920 Bouquet
  • 1920 Jasmin
  • 1920 Orchid
  • 1920 Jasmin d'Egypte
  • 1920 Hycsos (still sold in 1929)
  • 1920 Folie de Fleurs (still sold in 1927)
  • 1920 Douce Melodie (still sold in 1923)
  • 1922 Linkerie
  • 1927 Obelisque Sacre
  • 1927 Tut-Ankh-Amen
  • 1927 Lilas Rouge
  • 1920s Paris Vertige




Bottles:


Sphinx d'Or by Ramses: launched in 1920, it was described as having "rich, exotic" notes of "lingering mystery." It was contained in a luxurious figural sphinx shaped bottle resting on a plinth, crafted in Baccarat crystal and housed in a silk padded box. It retailed for $37.00 in 1922.




Ambre de Nubie by Ramses: launched in 1919. The name refers to the legendary land of Nubia, which was where the ancient Egyptians mined their gold. In fact, the name Nubia, is derived from the ancient Egyptian word, nub, meaning "gold." The "aromatic and spicy" perfume was contained inside an unusual figural Baccarat crystal bottle featuring a lion headed god with "nemes" headdress with the cow horned sun disk crown normally indicative of the goddess Hathor, but this god sports a beard, the shape of bottle itself mimics a sarcophagus. The perfume retailed for $13.00 in 1923.


Ramses IV by Ramses: launched in 1919: Named after the ancient Egyptian pharaoh. The "sweet and penetrating" perfume retailed for $25.00 in 1923 and was suggested to be worn by brunettes. Gorgeous Baccarat perfume bottle of J. Viard design in clear and frosted crystal with grey patina in shape of pharaoh's head, stopper is a smaller version of the royal double plumed crown. Bottle stands 4 3/4" tall. Estimate $6,500 - $8,500.

A 1922 ad reads: "Essence, Ramses IV: The tomb of a mighty Pharaoh. The heat of the desert stirs a vague whiff of oriental perfumes. A fragrance at once sweet and penetrating, that 3,000 years has not been able to dissipate. "The dream of Egypt was Eternity. Her odeurs have the solidity of granite and endure as long!"



Le Secret du Sphinx by Ramses: launched in 1917, it retailed for $16.50 in 1923 and had notes of aromatic incense. Its lovely Baccarat crystal bottle is shaped as an ancient Egyptian Canopic jar in clear glass, decorated with hieroglyphs and fitted with a figural frosted stopper in the shape of a pharaoh's head wearing the "nemes" headcloth, accented with grey patina. It was housed in a black satin mummy case. Bottle stands 4” tall. Estimate: $8,000-$12,000. Price realized at auction: $35,250.


A 1923 ad reads: ""Blended at Cairo, Egypt, since 1683. Bottled at Paris in the world's most beautiful containers of Baccarat crystal. "The most expensive perfume made!" All the delight and the mystery of the Land of the Nile are in these essences. All the art of Paris in the superb, Egypt-inspired flasques that contain them. In their crystal depths lurk secrets old as the spiceries of Arabia- the balm and tinctures of Gilead - the scented woods of Sheba. An elite Egyptian perfume blended from the veritable, historical essences that were known, and used, since the ancient days of Tut-ankh-Amen. The choice of the French aristocracy, intelligentsia and theatrical profession. Destined to play the leading role with the American Gentlewoman. Essence, Le Secret du Sphinx: An evening visit to the Sphinx. The mystical face of stone. The mouth smiling mockingly in the moonlight. The darkness of the shadows thickened with an ancient, aromatic incense of a forgotten Pharaoh. Poudre, Le Secret du Sphinx: A face powder of exceptional fineness, imbued with the rare Essence, Le Secret du Sphinx. Combining the art of modern Paris with the glamour of ancient Egypt. Obtainable in Blanche, Naturelle and Rachel."






Ioldys: launched in 1920 was described as "alluringly fragrant." It retailed for $11.50 in 1923.

Hycsos: was said to be "daring and original." The perfume was housed in a Baccarat crystal bottle enclosed in a red satin case. It retailed for $17.50 in 1922. 

Linkerie retailed for $6.50 in 1922.

Paris Vertige: bottle made up of Baccarat crystal in the shape of a scarab, it is fitted with a fan-shaped stopper. Packaged in a box covered with green satin.



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This is not your average perfume blog. In each post, I present perfumes or companies as encyclopedic entries with as much facts and photos as I can add for easy reading and researching without all the extraneous fluff or puffery.

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